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and 336 long. The ground in the centre which is partially obscured by a modern is somewhat elevated, and a foundation wall, evidently built as a means of dewall, running parallel with the exterior fence. walls of the court, marks the site of some One of my companions joined me near ancient building (5) long since swept the portico, and we passed through the away.
doorway leading into the body of the Advancing to the westward, I came temple. is 25 feet high by 20 feet out upon a fine large terrace, 230 feet broad, surrounded with rich mouldings long by 118 feet wide, which forr and ornaments, and is composed of nine had.arches along its western and northern great stones, three on each side, and sides, while its southern had a row of three on the top; but the centre one, or magnificent Corinthian columns, of which keystone, has descended between three or six now only remain standing; the others four feet below the others. Every part being overthrown during one of the of the doorway is covered with a proeartłıquakes formerly so common in fusion of ornaments which space will not Syria, and are now prostrate around allow me to describe; suffice it to menthem. In all probability there were ori. tion, that everything that taste and skill ginally about fifty-four of these columns could devise, and art execute in Corin. standing, each side having seventeen of thian architecture, has been lavished them, and the east and west ends ten upon this graceful entrance. A crested each. Most of them are built into the eagle with expanded wings, grasping a walls; and others are mingled with the caduceus in his talons, and holding in his friezes, cornices, and architraves, that beak the joined extremities of two feswere overthrown with them, and now toons, each of which is held at the other assist to fill up the vast space below. end by a figure representing a winged The shafts of these columns are 21 feet genius, is carved in bas-relief upon the 8 inches in circumference, and 58 feet soffit. The genius to the right of the high; and the total height above the eagle is defaced. epistylia on which they stand is 72 feet, Our entrance into the body of the ineluding the entablature, and 120 feet temple created a great panic amongst from the ground to the top of the pedi- a host of birds that had settled there, ment.
and the lizards retreated into their hiding Those who have seen the remnant of places, alarmed at our unwelcome prethis beautiful colonnade, can never forget sence. It is 118 feet long, by 65 feet in its towering columns—the glory of Baal- breadth, and on each side of the entrance bec-especially when viewed from the there is a square staircase, leading out to small temple (9) to the south; or as the the top of the temple. The entire roof traveller advances towards Baalbec from has fallen in. Damascus. Whether we stand at their At the western extremity there apbase and gaze upward, or view them from pears to have been an arch or canopy the quadrangular court, we are struck over the throne of the chief idol-prowith the richness and chasteness of their bably Baal-supported by two beautiful details, alike in frieze, soffit, or cornice. Corinthian columns, 25 feet distant from
A wall to the south, running parallel the wall, with double square Corinthian with the ruins of the colonnade, divides columns in the two corners, and pilasters the upper from the lower court, in which at the ends and sides, forming a partition the Temple of the Sun is situated, which between the body of the Temple, and the is probably the most ancient, and cer- throne, or altar; and on that part of it tainly the most perfect of all the remains which remains, may be seen sculptures at Baalbec. It is of the Corinthian order, in relievo, representing Neptune, Orion and when perfect, was approached through and his dolphin, various sea-gods, fishes, a portico, consistivg of a double row of tritons, &c. The remainder of the two coloins, now overthrown and strewn sides of the temple have three-quarter in. sainrusion before the entrance, Corinthian columns, six feet apart, with niches between them, evidently designed force the blade of a penknife between for the reception of statues. These the blocks. niches are in two rows, the upper row Near to the south-east corner there is having pointed, the lower one semicir- | a building, square outside, the walls of cular tops. The entire row has fallen in, prodigious thickness, and entered by a and the large blocks of compact primi. beautiful Saracenic niche, with a stairtive limestone of which it was formed are case on one side, leading to the top, heaped in confusion in the open space in which is partially lighted by a circular the centre, some mossed over with gold, opening, and narrow lancet windows at and others partly covered by the brier or the sides. The roof is arched over, so as the tendrilled plants that luxuriate here, to enable it to sustain huge masses of and entwine themselves around the sculp- stone belonging to a ruin on its summit. tured masses.
If the mind is filled with astonishment Around the temple there was a row of at the grandeur, size, and execution of beautiful Corinthian columns, 45 feet the details of the interior of the Temple high, 19 feet in circumference, and 9 feet of the Sun, and led to inquire how such apart, and the same distance from the masses of stones could be raised to such wall. They were surmounted by a beau- a height as the top of the building, how tiful cornice, 7 feet high, with the space much more will this feeling be increased between it and the wall covered by a upon visiting the interior of the enclocarved ceiling of separate stones, mea. sure in which the principal ruins stand; suring about 13 feet 8 inches long, by for the blocks of stone, forming part of 10 feet 3 inches in breadth. Each one is the old wall on the western side towards sculptured in bas-relief, and represents the plain, are enormous; they lie, consome of the reigning monarchs, sur. secutively, in the same course, and about rounded by their children in some in- 25 feet above the ground. What power stances; in others, the space appropriated did they employ to raise such stones? for them is filled in by some elegant orna. One measured 63 feet in length, 13 feet ment, probably indicating that the sove in height, and 10 in width ; two others reign was childless. One tablet that I were each 60 feet long, and 12 feet broad examined bad ten children, another only and deep. The whole of the wall of three; the fourth compartment being an which these stones form a part is comelegant design.
posed of huge blocks; but they appear The tablets on the north side had the insignificant by the side of these mon. king and queen placed at either end of sters. On the north side there are huge them, and the children in the centre; stones, and at the foot of Anti-Lebanon, but those on the south side had the chil- about half a mile from the town, and dren at the extremities, and the monarchs to the south of it, is a quarry, which in the centre. One tablet represented contains one large block hewn out, but not one of the queens nursing a child, and as separated from the rock, measuring 69 the right breast was deficient, it is rea- feet 2 inches in length, 12 feet 10 inches sonable to suppose that she was intended in breadth, and 13 feet 3 inches in thickto represent an Amazon.
ness, which would weigh about 1135 tons, Many of the columns that surrounded supposing its specific gravity to be the the temples are displaced; there were same as Portland stone. fourteen on each side originally---sixteen Space will not permit me to describe in front of the pronaos are fluted; nine the two subterranean passages beneath remain on the north side with the ceiling, the grand temple, running east and west, and four on the south, with six on the and connected by another passage with west. Each column consists of three the sculptured inscriptions ; and scarcely pieces of stone, joined together by a to allude to the small octagonal building, square piece of iron, fitted into the centre about half an hour's walk from the town of each block, and they are so nicely called by the natives Kubbet Duris-with fitted together, that it is impossible to its Corinthian ornaments.
The Metaweli women have, generally, delicious water, that flows through its very fine features, large black eyes, full centre. of expression and vivacity, luxuriant The rising mists, and crimson glow of raven hair, brown complexions, and fine evening, warned us to depart; and figures. A Metaweli has a different idea thanking the superior of the convent for of beauty to ourselves, for corpulency is his attention to us while there, we bade considered as an especial claim to the adieu to Baalbec, probably for ever. I appellation of “belle;” and their urged not my horse as we rode away standard of feamale beauty is —“Eyes from its neighbourhood, for there is a black as the gazelle's; a skin white as charm about its ruins that almost binds as milk, and smooth as amber; a mouth you to the spot. Those who have seen like a row of pearls set in coral ; and a Baalbec by moonlight and sunrise can face full as the moon.” They are taller never forget it; it is an epoch in the life in proportion than the men, averaging of a traveller. The lustrous light of the five feet; and are quiet and retiring in moon, with her star-bespangled train, their dispositions, and devoid of the afforded us a glimpse of the road we brutish expression the men so often ex- were travelling; but there was little to hibit. Their chief occupation is in spin- interest us—no beautiful scenery or maning cotton, and tending the goats we jestic ruins; and on we went, with monohave mentioned before, which are of an tonous tramp, until we arrived at Zahle, uncommon species.
where we halted for the night. The population of Baalbec has de- At day-break we were gain on our creased considerably of late years, in con- way, being desirious of paying a visit to sequence of oppression, want, and disease. the ruined temple of Hermes Nieha, In 1751, when Volney visited the town, which is about two hours' distance from it contained 5,000 inhabitants; but the Zahle. The ruins stand in a valley surearthquake of 1759, which caused so rounded by barren rocks, having a spring much destruction to the temple, and over- near to them to the eastward, which threw many houses, also destroyed 20,000 rustled in merry mood in its time-worn lives in the valley of Baalbec, and many channel; leaping by the imbedded rocks, in the town. The subsequent wars of while flocks of goats lined its banks, nipthe Emir and the Djezzar Pasha so re- ping the scanty herbage and blades of duced the number of the inhabitants, that grass. in 1785 they only amounted to 200. The temple faced the west, and a grand Burckhardt, who visited the town in 1810, fight of steps, twelve feet broad, with a estimated the number of the Metaweli column three and a-half feet in diameter families at 70, and the Greek Catholics at the extremity of the lower step, formed at 25. Now, allowing 3 to each family, the approach to a spacious pronaos, in this would give 285; and in this he has which are the remains of columns. A not enumerated the Maronites, or wan doorway, six feet in width, leads to the dering tribes. At the period of my visit cellar, the roof of which has fallen in, and in 1843, the number of persons residing covers the floor, while only one half of in the town was 180.
the side walls remain. It is 36 feet long The town itself presents a most wretched by 16 in breadth, and on each side on the appearance, being a confused heap of di- walls stood six pilasters of an indifferent lapidated hovels, that have suffered much Ionic order. At the extremity of the from the earthquakes; they have flat chamber are steps, choked up with fragroofs, and are built of sun-burnt brick or ments of columns and walls, which led to mud. A ruined bath, and two mosques a platform, where, in all probability, the with a lofty minaret, and the Emir’s statue of the idol stood. The temple serai or palace-as it is termed-are the appears to have been built in the latest only buildings to be seen. The fountains ages of Paganism, and is remarkable for of the Mosques, and the town itself, are its want of elegance in design and execuwell supplied by an abundant stream of tion. On the right side of the entrance
door is a staircase in the wall, leading to quick succession, wastes without a tree, the top of the building, similar to the one yawning precipices, woody hills, babbling at Baalbec.
streams shining amid luxriant banks, Leaving this ruin, we pursued our woodland nooks with clustered trees, ronte along the hills, and, crossing the whose plain, before reaching the Lebanon range, “ Tremulous leaves with soft and silver lining" we dined; and while refreshing ourselves delight the eye and relieve the landscape; and our horses, we admired the beauty of the bright greensward, with deep shathe scenery around us. In yon valley are dows cast from forest monarchs, and luxuriant crops of vines, melons, maize, banks covered with chameleon-like moss; and tobacco; and the slopes and sides of Hanging rocks riven by the convulsive the mountain are cultivated in ter- efforts of Nature; and delicious orchards naces, to prevent the rains washing away of pomegranate, citron, mulberry, and the soil; and they are thickly studded other trees. with fig, olive, mulberry, lentisk, syca- At length we gained the highest point more, oleander, pine, and carob trees; we had to reach, and soon espied the gardens, orchards, and vineyards, alter- town of Beyrout before us. A race to the nating with rocks, precipices, and moun- town was proposed, and now tain falls, or bubbling brooks; dirty khans “ Helter-skelter they fly, send their smoke high into the air, and O'er stone, through brier, the low huts of the peasants and square
O’er the dry land, through the mire, white houses relieve the landscape, as
Down the cliff, and up the hill,
Faster, faster, faster still !" they peep from their leafy nooks; herds until the plain of Beyrout was gained; of goats grazed around where we lay,
then, drawing rein, we trotted to St. "And heard the tinkling caravans
George's Bay, where we found our boat Descend the mountain road."
ready to convey us to our ocean home.” and a peaceful brook, fed by the moun- -KAF. tain streams at our feet, glided amid a mass of flowers that rendered the air CONJUGAL SUSPICION AND CONfragrant and refreshing ; the skylark over JUGAL CONFIDENCE. head, the chirping grasshoppers far and near, and the humming bee, supplied us
TAKING up a book after writing the with Nature's music. Oh! 'I could live above title, we happened to light upon a amid such scenes, content with wandering
Recipe for making a Mad Dog.” And here, and rambling there, unfettered by thereupon our fingers itched to draw our society's chains—with the heavens for å pen across the line we had written, and canopy, the sandy plain or mossy banks to substitute in its room, —“How to for a bed, Nature for an instructor, and make a mad husband.” my horse as a companion! There is a
And we can assure you, reader, that charm about an Arab's life, that makes great has been the effort of mind to keep me long once more to ramble among
back our thoughts from running into the
new channel which this breach in the em“Those grassy hills, those glittering dells,
bankment opened. For, however, comProudly ramparted with rocks."
plicated the process of making a mad dog Our way, henceforth, was such as I can may be, we believe it would be tolerably never hope or expect to witness again; easy, if it were worth one's while to try and they are dotted down in my note- the experiment, to make a mad husband: book in wild confusion as they occurred, -or say, by way of variation, a mad without many comments, and therefore wife. the reader shall have the advantage of We shall not write the recipe, howthe headings, leaving much to the imagi- ever; and to recall our wandering ideas, nation to fill up.
we shall copy the extract for which we At first we rode with gentle pace over were looking when the “mad dog." a luxuriant plain; then succeeded, in crossed our path.
* Perhaps,” says our author, “the things, endureth all things, and never whole art of happiness in the married faileth ; that cordial, reposing, and truststate might be compressed into two ing love which binds heart to heart, and maxims,— Bear, and forbear;' and recalls with a look and a smile, the fancy • Let the husband treat his wife, and the which may, for a moment, have gone wife her husband, with as much respect astray. and attention as he would a strange lady, Much more does Home Morality reand she, a strange gentleman.'
buke, with its sternest condemnation, the “I trust much caution is scarcely ne-groundless jealousy, alike despicable and cessary against flirtations, well calculated mischievous, which watches with its to excite uneasiness, doubts, and saspi- Argus' eyes, for the very appearance of cions, in the heart of the husband or wife evil-the faintest shadow of a shade of of the party who indulges in them, and a rival; and which enyemons and poisons to give occasion to the censorious to make with its baleful breath, the existence of sinister observations; but it is unfortu- domestic happiness at its very core. nately too true that the suspicion of misconduct often produces fully as much "She really seems a very interesting scandal and evil as the reality.
young woman." “It is a good rule of reason and com. The words were as commonplace as mon sense, that we should not only be, need be; and they were but the natural but appear to be, scrupulously correct in response to a very commonplace quesour conduct. And, be it observed, that, tion; but wonderful was their effect. 74,6 however pure and innocent the purposes ‘O, that is it, is it, Mr. D. ? | Interest : of the parties may be at the commence-ing, is she? very interesting, to ? - I dare ment, flirtation too often leads to disas say she is: I have no doubt you will find trous results. It breaks down some of her so; " and forthwith Mrs. D. showed the guards that hedge round innocence. symptoms of very great mental agitaThe parties in these cases are not inaptly tion, compared to the moth fluttering around “Bless my heart alive! why what is a lighted candle, unaware of the impend the matter, Susan? What have I said or ing danger. It finally burns its wings, done?” and is thus mutilated for life. He that “O, nothing; of course not. Oh, no! loveth danger, shall perish therein.? I ought to be very glad, I am sure, that Lead us not into temptation,' is a wise But, why do you call Miss Taylor prayer, and while we pray not to be led a young woman, Mr. D.? Why not say, into temptation, we most assuredly ought young lady?” not to lead ourselves into it. I know “By all means, my love, if you please: these remarks will be charged to the ac- I have no doubt that Miss Taylor is count of prudery; but, at the risk of quite deserving of being called a young this charge, I cannot withhold them.” lady. She is, at any rate, very lady.
No, not prudery this; but wisdom and like." morality ;-good sound MORALITY FOR “Yes, oh yes, Mr. D.; and so inteHOME, every syllable of which we cor- resting, you know, so very intereste dially endorse.
ing !” and before her husband could But this is only one side of a subject reply, Mrs. D. had disappeared. At dinwhich has many sides; and, while Home ner-time her place was vacant. She had Ма ity demands and enforces that con- a bad headache, she sent word by the jugal fidelity which forbids suspicion, it housemaid, and begged that Mr. D. would requires, on the other hand, that conjugal excuse her, and allow Miss Taylor to take confidence which defies the power of jea- her place. lousy,—that charity that “thinketh no Mr. D. was unfortunately, too much evil, -that rejoiceth not in iniquity, but used to these flights of temper, to think rejoiceth in the truth,—that beareth all that some strange thing had happened to things, believeth all things, hopeth all | him, and, without placing Miss Taylor