state of our fortifications leaves, I must own, much to be desired; but, under the superintendence of Colonel Hills, wonders have been achieved in the short space of time we have had. The works consist of an outer wall 10 feet high and 18 feet thick, with a chemin des rondes 18 feet wide and a main parapet 20 feet high, and averaging 15 feet in thickness at its centre. This again has a top wall 6 feet high, and a covered way 30 feet wide, with a space between it and the houses.

When we marched into Kandahar last year all was in sad disrepair, and in a state of filth baffling description. Prothero, assistant political to Colonel St. John, undertook the sanitary arrangements of the city, while the citadel was taken charge of by the Engineer officer, Oliver. In the bazaars gangs of labourers were at once employed to clean out the open drains in front of the shops, and the refuse was carried away by relays of donkeys, so that in a short space of time the 'Shah' bazaar and the Alizai quarters, once the dirtiest part of the town, were thoroughly clean, walls had been removed, and spaces cleared for latrines. All the lanes were swept each day, and in a short time the Populzai and Barukzai quarters were put to the same test. The city is divided into four quarters, and each is a little more than half a mile long and half a mile wide. The main lanes run, as a rule, at right angles, and the spaces intervening are formed into squares, while mosques, gardens, public buildings, and bazaars, fill up the intervals. Running water is plentiful, and could not be easily cut off by an enemy, as the canals are well commanded by our guns. The houses are low and mud built, and not laid out, as with us, in streets, but in irregular blocks, and such blocks separated from each other by narrow lanes, or what in

Edinburgh would be called 'wynds,' varying in width from ten to two feet. Most of the roofs are flat, and have a sort of breastwork parapet, from which an uncommonly effective defence might be made, as most of these walls are solidly built of mud and sun-dried bricks, and are crenellated and loopholed. Our principal hospital is at Mir Afsul's old dwelling, not far from the Herat gate.

The place has been wonderfully improved of late, and fortunately so, as it is now so full of sick and wounded, most of whom, however, are doing well. There is a large, well-tended garden in front, with a splendid mulberrry-tree giving agreeable shelter to the convalescents, while a mass of rose-trees in fullest bloom light up the place in a wonderful manner. Some of these rose-trees are fifteen feet high, and the same in diameter, while the branches are kept from falling by supports which form them into delightful arbours. The great domed bazaar is in the centre of the town, and from it there are streets leading to the four principal gates of the city. The citadel street is the principal thoroughfare, and thronged at all hours by fruit and vegetable sellers, while all day long there is a neverceasing traffic of camels, mules, donkeys, cows, and footpassengers. Watercourses run through the street, gardeners are washing lettuces, blacksmiths' shops. coppersmiths' shops, crowded with men and boys at work, while the front of the shop is crowded with vessels for sale-huge cooking-pots, salvers, tea-urns, washingbasins, candlesticks, all engraved with letters and texts from the Koran: leather-curriers, tailors making sheepskin coats, shoe-shops, sellers of rosaries, carpet-sellers, ornamental saddle-cloths; and a motley crew of men,

women, and children, moving incessantly up and down, giving little indication that we are in a state of siege.

The citadel has been so often described that I will merely call attention to one remarkable feature, and that is the vast underground accommodation we possess in its admirably built vaults, which are shell and bombproof, and which we can use as magazines, storehouses, hospital, stables, as they are cool, water-tight, with highdomed roof, and well-fitted solid stable furniture. Here we have placed a greater portion of our cavalry, and men and horses are rapidly recovering from the fatigue and wounds received on the 27th.

These native horsemen are fine fellows, and as a rule will follow their officers anywhere. On the 27th, however, the ground was unfavourable, and they were terribly demoralised by the feu d'enfer of Ayub's thirty-six guns. Their horses are tethered by double head and heel-ropes, which on the march is carried from the lower ring of the headstall to a ring in front of the saddle. The sowar now carries a Snider carbine, a curved sword, sharp as a razor, and a lance. The uniform is an indigo blue pugri, or turban, around a redwadded skull-cap, a blue serge koorta (frock), red cummerbund, loose yellow pyjamas, and long boots, while his belt and appointments are black, with silver fittings. His pouch-belt and pouch carry twenty rounds, and his waist-belt is broad, with a blue and white pennon to his lance. These men get twenty-seven rupees a-month, and on this they find horse, tatoo (pony), and all. It is a great pity we have not more of these fellows, as Ayub is exceptionally strong in cavalry, and we are now unable to make a reconnaisance in force.

A large number of the Pathan population were expelled yesterday, and although this may seem a harsh measure, it has been a necessary one. They have all friends and relations in the neighbouring villages, and were allowed to store any property they could not carry in the citadel. With plenty of ammunition, sufficient provisions to last a month on full rations, and a really close investment almost impossible, I can see no reason why we should have the smallest anxiety as to the result. Meanwhile, not an hour passes but some addition to our defences is made, and every day of inaction on Ayub's part makes his chances of success more remote: the only fear we have is that he may not wait to fight our relieving force.

CHAPTER IV.

VALEDICTORY VISITS IN CABUL-ABDURRAHMAN.

Cantonment of the Bala Hissar, July 26.

A FEW days ago I, by the merest chance, had the opportunity of conversing for some considerable period with Abdurrahman Khan, the ruler elect, and as such acknowledged by our representatives. Before I enter into delails I may as well put you au courant with the state of affairs previous to the Ameer's recognition by our Government.

In the first place we had been instructed, before the late English Ministry went out of office, that, before our troops retired to the new scientific frontier, a strong and capable Governor should, if possible, be found to carry on the government of Cabul and its district. As far back as March last Lord Lytton was in communication with more than one royal Sirdar, but with Abdurrahman in particular, whom the Viceroy looked upon as the chief, the most popular, and the most likely to win the suffrages of the Sirdars and the people of this most difficult country. The delays which took place in the progress of these negotiations are perhaps to be accounted for through their delicate nature, as Lord Lytton was careful to promise little, while Abdurrahman was too astute and cautious a politician to pledge himself until he felt his footing tolerably secure. Then we must remember how great is the distance between Turkestan and Cabul; while Abdurrahman no doubt felt some distrust of an offer so apparently disinterested and