CHAPTER IX.

THE TOURIST ROUTE.

THE tourist route to Alaska extends from Seattle to Sitka, and lies over a course which, for nearly twelve hundred miles, is almost entirely through narrow channels bordered by high mountains that completely prevent the sea from becoming rough. If an occasional glimpse of the waters of the North Pacific ocean were not obtained, when passing from the shelter of one island behind the precipitous shores of another, one would never realize that he was enjoying all the pleasures of a sea voyage, with but few of the discomforts.

The Pacific Coast Steamship Company of San Francisco, extended its route northward to this country some ten years ago. And upwards of five thousand tourists, each year since, have seen an endless panorama of scenery unfolded to their view throughout the entire distance.

The vessels are large, comfortable and convenient, and the appointments throughout, are especially adapted for the sort of trip made; and every facility is afforded for complete enjoyment, and every opportunity given to see and learn all there. is to discover, on this greatest of tourists' routes

A semi-monthly mail is carried by the Pacific Coast Steamship Company to the different points on this route, and besides the steamers thus employed, the palatial steamer "Queen, three thousand tons burden, having accommodations for two hundred and fifty first-class passengers, makes semi-monthly trips during June, July and August. There is no time in the year, however, when communication to all points on this route is not made regularly twice each month, but during December, January and February a single steamer only is necessary to take care of the traffic.

While the universal verdict of those who are so fortunate as to be able to take a trip to Alaska is that it is one round of charm

ing surprises, and the scenery superior to that found in any other part of the civilized world, the great secret of the popularity of the Alaskan trip is the courteous and attentive treatment received from the employes. The masters have all been on this route for many years, and they never forget, for an instant, to afford the passengers every opportunity to see and enjoy to the fullest extent all sights and pleasures possible.

The most favorable time for making the trip is from the first of June until the last of August; yet a month earlier or later presents many opportunities for enjoyment. The long periods of twilight which prevail in this latitude, in the spring and fall months, strikes one as strange, and a better view is often afforded in the subdued light of "early morn and dewy eve.”

The dry subject of enumeration of the articles needed on this trip may be abbreviated by the simple suggestion that one should carry such articles as are usually needed on a journey of two or three weeks, being careful to have clothing that is warm and suitable for an unusually rainy country.

Seattle, which bears the illustrious title of the Queen City of the Northwest, is situated upon an indentation of Puget sound, forming a perfect harbor, almost circular in shape, and named Elliott bay.

It is a substantial, well-built city, having a population of more than sixty thousand, and it presents in every way, the air and activity of a live, bustling and enterprising city. Although founded 'way back in the fifties, the real growth of Seattle dates from 1889, when the entire business portion of the city was laid in ashes, and almost every vestige of the early uncouth, ill-built town was swept away.

The wooden buildings and shacks that lined the business streets have been replaced by modern brick and stone blocks, elegant in construction and imposing in appearance. The city is modern in every respect. It has a magnificent system of water works and sewers, is well lighted and has good streets, over which there is a complete network of street railways reaching to the different suburban towns, and to the many beautiful parks and lakeside resorts, for which the city is justly noted and which are the admiration of the tourist.

Lake Washington, the pride and delight of Seattleites, is a beautiful sheet of water, lying east of the city, about twenty-five miles long, and averaging three in width. Its shores are dotted

with summer residences, and its bosom bears numberless pleasure craft of varied form and design, while many steamers ply the lake for commercial purposes. The lake is reached by four lines. of street railways, two cable and two electric. Adjoining Lake Washington, and but a short distance north, is Lake Union, a smaller but fine lake, surrounded by pleasant homes; and still another beautiful sheet of water is Green lake, northeast of the city. All of these lakes contain abundance of trout and other fish. Sixty miles away, to the south, snow-covered Mt. Rainier raises its lofty head, standing hoary and magnificent. It overlooks the great inland sea called Puget Sound, and the many cities and villages that thrive upon its shores.

Among the numerous parks within easy distance of Seattle are Ravenna, Woodland, Madrona, Leschi, Madison Street and Kinnear, beautiful natural parks to which art has leant completing touches. The city has excellent schools, and the different religious denominations are well represented, there being fifty-six places of worship in the city. There are also two opera houses; the Seattle Theatre is one of the finest on the Pacific coast. The city is undoubtedly the commercial metropolis of the northwest. It is the entrepot for an immense stretch of country rich in lumber, coal and other natural resources; the wonderful shipment of lumber being the most important industry, although the coal business is large and steadily growing. Its citizens are enterprising, and the unanimity with which all labor for the common advancement of the city's interest has often been commented upon with praise.

Tacoma, called by its citizens the "City of Destiny," is situated on Commencement Bay thirty miles south of Seattle, and is a point often visited by tourists en route to Alaska. Tacoma is an enterprising city of some forty-five thousand people, and has had a phenomenal growth. It is the second city in size and importance in the State and is modern in all respects, having many business enterpises, manufactures, electric and cable railways, schools, churches, etc. South of the city about thirty miles distant, rises Mt. Rainier, but in Tacoma the name "Rainier" is never heard, except from a stranger or perhaps a Seattle man. Here it is lovingly referred to as "Mt. Tacoma," and the mountain with the dual name has been for years the source of much good natured badinage between the two rival cities of Puget Sound, as well as a source of amusement and