JEWS AT BOULOGNE-ROAD TO PARIS.

5

his brethren, but if any should accomplish this, it would be in the way of kindness." He had been long seeking the truth, and thought he was still doing so, but was not convinced that it lay with us. He argued that the Jews had got their laws "for ever;" but was silent when we pointed to the new covenant promised in Jeremiah. In speaking of Jesus, he made some interesting admissions. "The character and doings of Jesus Christ were most wonderful, and the success of Christianity in the world was the doing of God, in order to alleviate the misery of men; for had Christianity not existed, he shuddered to think what might have been the state of nations." When pressed with the question, “Would Jesus, so excellent a character as he admitted him to be, declare himself Son of God, if he were not really so?" he was again silent, and seemed confused. He thought that God may possibly have prospered Christianity for the sake of the Jews; for true Christianity had never persecuted them. He had heard of Dr. Keith's work on Prophecy, expressed delight at meeting with the author, and on being presented with the Doctor's last work on the Evidences, requested him to write his name upon it. When presented with a Hebrew New Testament, on which we had written that we would often pray that he might be brought to light and peace, he shewed much emotion. Once or twice, after rising to go away, he resumed his discourse. On finally taking leave, which he did with tears running down his face, he said with great emphasis, "If you wish to gain a Jew, treat him as a brother." From him we learned that there were only eight families of Jews here, and that the children of one of these attend a Christian school.

This being the first night of our inquiries after the scattered sheep in a foreign land, we could not but feel peculiar encouragement from this interview. It seemed as if the Lord was in haste to give us a token of his presence.

(April 13.) Next day at ten o'clock we started for Paris, a distance of 140 miles, in the diligence, a cumbrous, heavy wagon, enormously loaded with passengers and luggage, and boxes of treasure-postillions cracking their whips most vigorously. Beyond the town, we found a peaceful scene, the river Leanne flowing gently through the vale. The hedges were sprouting, and gardens farther advanced than in Eng

* Jer. xxxi. 33.

6

MONTREUIL-ABBEVILLE-BEAUVAIS.

land. Part of the road was lined with willow trees, cut across, so that they looked like columns, the branches having been stripped off for basket-making. From time to time, in the fields we saw the plough drawn by four horses, and moving on wheels. The sight of many retired, beautiful villages surrounded by rich fields often called forth the prayer, "Thy kingdom come"-when these spots shall all be seats of holiness. The cross is here a never-failing object in the churches and churchyards, and occasionally by the way-side. Many people were returning from a neighbouring market, and women riding on donkeys and ponies.

We passed through Montreuil, an old town, defended by a wall and fort, which again are surrounded by a moat, with a considerable extent of marshy ground in the vicinity. Several times as the diligence moved slowly up a hill, or cautiously descended, children from the villages came round with bouquets of flowers, which they threw into the vehicle, chanting at the same time very sweetly in their native patois.

We next passed through Abbeville, with its fortified entrance. It has a fine old Cathedral, and the houses are built in an old fantastic style. Here we had our first specimen of a Table d'hôte, with the music of a company of harpers to entertain us.

About two in the morning (Sabbath), the diligence arrived at Beauvais, where we were delayed for some hours. Our information had led us to expect that we should have been in Paris before Sabbath morning broke, and we felt this violation of the Holy Day very painfully. As morning advanced, we saw the people of the villages going forth to labour just as on other days-ploughmen in the fields, women at their cottagedoors, children at play. We soon found that buying and selling, and every sort of amusement, were the chief occupations of the people of France on the holy Sabbath. Many of the horses wore tinkling bells as they went out to the fields; but the prophecy is not yet fulfilled, when "there shall be upon the bells of the horses holiness unto the Lord."* In passing through St. Denys, we found that all was bustle and activity-vehicles of every kind coming along the road, and every one engaged in the pursuit of pleasure. A band of children, and a few women, chiefly old people, were on their way to church.

* Zech. xiv. 20.

FRENCH SABBATH-PARIS.

7

On reaching Paris, we refreshed ourselves, and set out for Marbauf Chapel, where divine service is conducted in English. The streets presented an endless scene of gaiety and show. There was scarcely a shop shut, and the people literally thronged every street, all in their best holiday dress. Our way led through the "Champs Ely sees," crowded with people of all ranks; each determined to find their Elysium in every form of pleasure, and openly defying the words of the Holy One of Israel.* Even children were there,-boys and girls skipping at their games, and amusing themselves on gaudily painted swings. The well-conditioned and fashionable were parading up and down; many eating and drinking; the noblesse riding in all kinds of vehicles. It might be a scene like this that was witnessed in the days of Noah, or when Lot went out of Sodom-eating, drinking, planting, building, &c. Even now the day of Christ would "come as a snare" upon all the earth! We felt the contrast when we got within the walls of the Chapel. While worshipping there with a devout band, we seemed to have exchanged the din and confusion of Babel for the peace and stillness of the Holy Place. In the evening we heard a French sermon from Frederic Monod, in the upper chamber of the Oratoire, on Paul being sent "to open the blind eyes:" the assembly was small, but lively and fervent, and the singing of the Psalms in French was very sweet; it seemed to be with all the heart. In canonical hours the French Protestants use a short liturgy; they have also a short extempore prayer. Out of a population in Paris of 800,000, only 2000 attend regularly any Protestant place of worship. Still the state of Protestantism is much improved. Not long ago scarcely one faithful sermon was heard in Paris, now fourteen are preached every Sabbath-day; and there are Protestant schools, attended by 800 children, two-thirds of whom are children of Catholic parents. None of the Protestant clergy in Paris are Neologian. The Popish party are active, bringing to the city some of their best preachers, who have increased the attendance at their churches, but made scarcely any impression on the infidel part of the population. No city seems more to resemble Sodom.‡ Even in our way from the church, we saw some of the horrors of a Parisian Sabbath evening; gambling and other scenes of profligacy being plainly visible from the + Rev. xi. 8.

street.

* Isa. Iviii. 13.

+ Luke xvii. 26, 30.

JEWS IN PARIS.

(April 15.) This morning (Monday), Mr. Evans from Edinburgh, and other excellent friends to whom we were introduced, assisted us in our inquiries and forwarded all our arrangements. In regard to the Jews, we found that they are not numerous, and are mostly infidels. They have a synagogue, and it is here that Rabbi Cahen has published his translation of the Old Testament, a work so imbued with Neology, that many even of his own congregation are disgusted with it. Frederic Monod said, that there had been efforts made for the conversion of the Jews, but with no success. He knew of no instance of real conversion among them in Paris. They are scattered through the mass of the population, and thus are lost to the Christian eye-and hence, in some degree, we may account for the comparatively little interest taken in this people by Christians here. The eye of the Christian in Paris rests on the masses of infidelity, and when he sees these, "he is moved with compassion," and can look no farther. Paris is by many supposed to be "the street of the great city," referred to in the Book of Revelation.* Its daily scenes of open iniquity, as well as the tremendous crimes of the past, well known throughout the world, may entitle it to this awful pre-eminence. We were struck with the luxury and thoughtlessness of this great city. In its commonest hotels are seen indications of plenty; and the piled up rolls of white bread often reminded us of that feature of Sodom, "fulness of bread and abundance of idleness was in her;" "therefore, they were haughty, and committed abomination before me."†

We saw some splendid buildings. The Church of the Magdalene-The Palaces-The Pillar in the Place Vendome, and many others. We had time to walk round the city and see some of its magnificence. But even had this been Babylon with its hanging gardens and walls of brass, we would rather have found out Israel by the river-side, hanging their harps on the willows, than gazed on the trophies of Atheism and the abodes of guilt.

(April 16.) On Tuesday afternoon we set out for Chalons sur-Saone. While riding up the banks of the Seine and across the Marne, the country was very pleasant. Beautiful villages seem to be characteristic of French scenery. One or two handsome chateaux appear, with gilded railings according to French taste. Such country

Rev, xi. 8.

+ Ezek. xvi. 49, 50.

TROYES-CHATILLON-DIJON.

9

seats, however, are few, a fact that quite accords with the national gaiety, to which rural calm would be a burden. When we awoke next morning, we were approaching Troyes, a decayed-looking town, containing 28,000 inhabitants. The white and red blossoms of the cherry, the apricot, and the peach trees, met the eye in every garden we passed. Vineyards were now more frequent, the vines just beginning to bud. Bundles of sticks were lying ready to support them, when they should begin to sprout. In the plains, a field of vines and a field of wheat generally alternate, affording the necessaries and luxuries of life,* corn and wine. Some of the fields are ploughed in the circular manner, as in the Carse of Gowrie. We then came to the Aube, another tributary of the Seine, within view of some gently rising hills. There were with us in the diligence two young Roman Catholic lads, very open and amiable, with whom we got into free conversation. As we were distributing tracts from the windows to the people that passed by, one of them offered to join us in our employment, and both seemed happy at being presented with tracts for themselves. Indeed, one of them took a good supply with him to distribute in Lyons, where he resides.

About sunset we reached Chatillon-sur-Seine. Walking onward beyond the town, while the postillions were changing horses, we found it a quiet peaceful spot,—the scenery resembling the banks of the Jed a little above Jedburgh. In this district, and indeed along all our journey, we observed how carefully in France a church has been attached to every small village. Popery has here allowed none to escape its grasp, nor grudged to bring its ordinances to the door of the poorest villagers.

We reached Dijon about half-past six in the morning, and made up for the uncomfortable rest of the diligence by a few hours' sleep at the Hotel de la Galère. The town is marked out by a remarkably slender, tapering spire shooting up from the cathedral. About midday we called upon the Protestant clergyman, M. Alfonse Frontin, a young man labouring patiently for the truth. He has the charge of the Protestant population, who amount to 200 souls, but they are very lifeless. He told us (and we found his information verified by an intelligent member of his congregation), that there are about 400 Jews here. None of the French Protestants in the town

• Ps. iv. 7.